If you patronize your local library or historical society to research your ancestors, analyze censuses, or dive into 19th-century marriage records, you may have more in common with a modern pop star than you think. In her hit song “Picture You,” Chappell Roan ponders, “Am I doing research, in a miniskirt, at the library in your hometown?” I posed the same question and more to researchers at American Ancestors to better understand the ins and outs of a genealogist’s wardrobe.
The past year has seen Chappell Roan’s meteoric rise to stardom on the back of her 2023 album The Rise and Fall of a Midwest Princess. Along with her booming vocals, iconic red locks, and her notable advocacy for LGBTQ+ rights, Roan’s exceptional outfits are a big hit with her devoted fans. Inspired by myriads of drag performers and cultural influences, “your favorite artist’s favorite artist” always dresses to impress.
Images courtesy of Rolling Stone (Astrida Valigorsky/Getty Images; Steven Simione/FilmMagic; Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for MTV; Todd Owyoung/NBC via Getty Images)
Roan’s lyrics in “Picture You” demonstrate that pop stars and genealogists alike know the importance of spending time in the library. It can be crucial to answering longstanding family history questions, even as more resources become digitally available. Although it came as no surprise that Chappell makes bold fashion decisions when patronizing local libraries, I nonetheless had wheels turning in my head: do others do the same? Specifically, what makes up a family historian’s typical wardrobe? How do researchers dress depending on their locale? Finally, and most pointedly, do genealogists wear miniskirts?
Answering these burning questions required some investigative journalism, so I polled the American Ancestors staff to better understand the intersection of fashion and genealogy.
Is it business casual now? Criteria for choosing research attire
Whether or not it’s done with intention, selecting an outfit can reflect one’s priorities. I polled our researchers on several factors that can go into such decision-making to clarify any connections between their wardrobes and research goals.
Our researchers unanimously answered that they consider comfort when getting dressed for the job. Several responses indicate that the long hours of a professional researcher demand comfort:
“I feel like coziness is a top priority for me when researching from home, since I'll end up diving into day-long rabbit holes!”
“If I’m sitting down to research for hours I want to be comfortable”
“I usually dress for comfort so that my only distraction is my research”
For another researcher, their professional status obscured the reasoning behind their fashion choices:
“It's very hard to evaluate because I only do family history stuff at work. So do I dress like this because I'm professional, or because it’s the call of genealogy?”
Second only to comfort was function, another criterion that our researchers value overwhelmingly. Our staff identified several different functions that their clothing must serve, namely based on location of research and the nature of their work:
“Comfortable shoes if researching involves tramping through a cemetery”
“I may be… more comfortable if I’m handling materials with red rot [the deterioration of leather that leaves fine red particulates and can stain clothing]”
“I like to wear clothing with pockets or have a small crossbody purse with me while researching at a library/archive in case I need to carry copy cards, small notebook/pens/pencils, change, etc.”
Unlike those working from home or traipsing through cemeteries, researchers in libraries, archives, and other public spaces generally emphasized a certain level of professional or formal dress in their responses. Many wouldn’t be caught dead in jeans:
“Your clothes should be clean and comfortable without looking like a slob if you visit public places whether it is a library or an archive…”
“When researching outside of the house at a library or similar institution, I often try to dress more professionally…”
Although a response stating “I prefer to research without shoes” did not specify where this is the case, this journalist would have to agree.
Hair clips and lip gloss: Research habits and trusted accessories
Although “Superstition/personal tradition” is a factor that our researchers don’t tend to consider, those who do use a special knick-knack, article of clothing, or accessory shared their reasoning for such:
“I try to have a family heirloom with me! Whether that's a ring or a pin, I think it's fun. Maybe it's lucky!”
“I often think about Winona Ryder's "Jo" in Little Women and how she liked to wear that very silly hat whenever she sat down to write. I think we all have quirks like this.”
“I have a friend who always lights a candle, another who visits her family altar before researching, and another who wears her late mother’s necklace every day (whether she’s researching or not).”
Responses in this area overwhelmingly support the need for temperature regulation. Layers, specifically blankets, sweaters, cardigans, and warm socks were all referenced multiple times as crucial research accessories. Though archival spaces typically maintain consistent temperatures, professional genealogists must be prepared for anything, even researching when it’s like a hundred ninety-nine degrees. As one response put it, “…libraries can be hot or cold, so you always want to be ready for any situation.”
Am I Are you doing research in a miniskirt?
Although Chappell Roan’s cultural influence has been well-documented, we wanted to understand, once and for all, to what extent genealogists have joined the Pink Pony Club. In all, about 40% of responses indicated a willingness to sport a miniskirt at the library, perhaps accompanied by some go-go boots. Others cited their support for the principle, even if they might not participate:
“I'm not sure I would wear a miniskirt anymore (haha) but I DO love and support local libraries!”
“While I love the idea of doing research in a miniskirt at the library in my hometown, I fear it is not practical for me. Too cold!”
“…my hometown library has hard wooden chairs--doesn't sound comfortable in a mini skirt!”
In all, researchers’ wardrobes vary widely. Although genealogists almost unanimously prioritize comfort and function when picking an outfit, some consider style while others rely on trusted accessories. A big theme among responses was love and appreciation for libraries, and our staff is overjoyed following the opening of the Brim-DeForest Library in our Boston research center.
Much like the particulate pervasiveness of red rot, please respect library spaces by avoiding glitter. Furthermore, although food and drinks are often prohibited in library spaces, Chappell ate and left no crumbs when doing research in a miniskirt.